Assembling a TIKI 21

7 posts / 0 new
Last post
Anonymous (not verified)
Assembling a TIKI 21
Help anyone, I purchased a used and somewhat dilapidated Tiki 21 about two years ago. I have now finished the rebuild and I am about to assemble it. I was given some plans with the boat but no assembly instructions. Is there someone out there who can help? In particular I would like some instructions on the type and diameter of the rope used for lashing of the cross beams to the hulls and the number of turns of lashing required at each location. Also are there any tricks to getting the hulls oriented correctly to each other. I am in Brisbane Australia and I am looking forward to getting the boat in the water over Christmas. Any help would be appreciated. regards, Ken C.
Anonymous (not verified)
Re: Assembling a TIKI 21
Ken, I use a double-braid, New England Ropes' Sta-set, 5-6mm in size, on my tiki 26. After a loop around the lashing cleat, I put 4 wraps around the beam and tie it off. This is followed by a frapping line: this goes around the lashing between the sheer and the beam. This really tightens up the lashing; pull all the lashings as hard as you can. As long as the beams have locating pads, the hulls should end up in the right place. :) If you clamp some vertical sticks on the fore and aft stems, that would allow you to measure the diagonals: if the diagonals are equal (or close to it) you will be good to go. Congratulations! Hope you are sailing soon. 8-)
Anonymous (not verified)
Re: Assembling a TIKI 21
I use 6mm prestretched for the lashings. I place the rear beam on first then shuffle the hulls around to ensure they're lined up with loose lashings. The rear beam can be aligned to the back of the cabin also to ensure a right angle (90 degree) is correct. As kwhitmyre says, the locating pads help. Then place the front beam on and you should have a rigid structure so you can tighten the lashings. Locate the deck panels in the rear beam and have someone hold them horizontal while you put on the middle beam. Before securing the front beam make sure the front beam is as far back as it can be, again, aligned to the front edge of the cabin. I put the dolphin striker on the middle (mast) beam before I start.
Anonymous (not verified)
Re: Assembling a TIKI 21
Hi, I think the plans call for 4mm rope, which is what I believe mine is :oops: . The plans only show the line/rope being secured around the beam and block, and not across the lashing. This seems ok on mine, but after the first sail I normally go around and tighten all lashings again, as the beams etc tend to "settle" and the lashings loosen ever so slightly. Enjoy the sailing. They're great boats and tremendous fun to sail. Carl
Anonymous (not verified)
Re: Assembling a TIKI 21
Its a difficult call. 4mm prestretched is quite thin and could well saw into the beam if there is any movement (there will always be a bit). On the other hand, thicker rope will put more pressure on the block. I was thinking about making a metal plate to protect my beams from chafe.
Anonymous (not verified)
Re: Assembling a TIKI 21
We use 6mm stayset and then frap with 4-5mm spectra. We haven't had any chaffing issues with the 6 mm stayset and the minute amount of stretch is what the lashings are all about.We use the spectra for frapping as it doesn't stretch significantly at the loads incurred and is slippery allowing the lashings to be pulled super tight. We wrap the tail around a wooden lever and really crank on the frappings. The frapping turns are what really tighten up the lashings. David http://www.boatsmithfl.com
Anonymous (not verified)
Re: Assembling a TIKI 21
Don't forget to thread the lashings for the front trampoline and fit the dolphin striker before fitting the platform. I did and it took ages to thread them tighten them correctly. Tiki21