Tiki 38 rudder issue

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Anonymous (not verified)
Tiki 38 rudder issue
One of the tasks to be done before Aluna will go back in the water this summer is to solve this issue with one of the rudders. During the sail from San Francisco to Hilo the starboard rudder had slipped off the block it sits on, which extends from the bottom end of the skeg. While in Radio Bay, Hilo we managed with a notable contraption of underwater Spanish windlasses and a lot of shoving to get it back in place. As soon as we were back under way to make our way around the Big Island, it was back out. [url]http://www.flickr.com/photos/mobeyprod/4539542571/in/photostream/[/url] [url]http://www.flickr.com/photos/mobeyprod/4540176164/in/photostream/[/url] Has anybody had this issue? It only happens on the starboard side, port rudder is fine. Any practical solutions?
Anonymous (not verified)
Re: Tiki 38 rudder issue
Greetings Beat, You're still here! ;) The first thing that comes to my mind: did you epoxy the lashing into the rudder/stem holes? I can envision the rudder rotating if the lashing is not epoxied into the holes. (edited for clarity!) Hope that you two are enjoying yourselves otherwise!
Anonymous (not verified)
Re: Tiki 38 rudder issue
Hey Kim Yep, we are, but not much longer. Not only did our terrestrial landlord kick us out of our apartment, but Uncle Sam is kicking us out of the country. Are you saying you epoxied the lashing ropes into the holes? My concern would be twofold: How would you ever take them out if you have to? Wouldn't the epoxy make the rope brittle at wherever penetrates it, creating sharp edges that could end up damaging it? Also the fact only one side is doing it makes it all a bit mysterious.
Anonymous (not verified)
Re: Tiki 38 rudder issue
Wow, that Uncle Sam is a meany! Re the lashing holes: on the rudders themselves, I created an epoxy inlay and drilled through that for the lashing holes. These are not epoxied. On the stems, since I simply drilled the holes right through, after lashing the rudders on using the figure eight method as tight as I could, I jammed West System syringes in deep and injected epoxy until it began to emerge around the lashing. I finished these holes off with a bit of thickened epoxy. The lashings should not be moving except at the the "hinge" of the figure eight, so the epoxy should cause no problems for the line. The original plans simply drilled through the wood on both the stems and the rudders, finishing off by injecting the epoxy into the holes as above to waterproof them. Removal consists of cutting the lashings flush to the structure, and then drilling them out. This evidently does not need to be done very frequently, as reports are that the dacron lashing lasts quite a long time, up to ten years I've heard. Ah, the ocean is a mysterious entity, of course! :)
Anonymous (not verified)
Re: Tiki 38 rudder issue
Hi Beat, It looks as though you may have no, or not enough, clearance where the rudder lashings cross each other. The rudder should not be riding on the ropes; and the leading edge of the rudder should fit tightly against the back of the skeg, with no gap. The recess for the lashing is meant to be cut back 4mm on both the skeg and the rudder for a total of 8mm. I have made a mock up before cutting and drilling my own Tiki 38, hopefully it shows clearly enough: [url][img]http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/yy350/alfbangert/Kattu%20Build/Rudder... This doesn't show on the plans, but it is in the instruction book if you look very carefully. Done this way, it is impossible for the rudder to slip sideways as the geometry prevents this. The front edge of the rudder also has to be a perfect half-circle. I hope this helps and wish you good luck with it, -Alf
GES609
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Joined: 09/21/2014 - 22:47
rudder along side of the hull

Both our ruddersended off to the side of the boat for our whole trip to the bahamas. We tried twice on the trip to realine them but they just fell off to the side. The problem was solved by planeing the back of the boat so it was sraight. This in abled me to pull the lashing tighter. The rounding of the leading edge of the ruuder is important. The good news is the rudders location are forgiving. We did 1000 of miles with them on the side not where they are meant to be. We all so had one less hing then spoecified in the plan. I drilled my lashing holes big and used many cotton swabs covered with expoy to coat the inside of my holes it many layers of expoy. This way I can replace the lashing more easly.

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